My latest video


The semester is almost finish and my students are working very hard on their final jacket project. We will do a photo shoot the 10 of May…

Since the assembling of the self is going pretty good, the lining by it self is quite easy, I decide to make one more video to help them with the assembling of the lining with the self.

I already did the lined tailor sleeve, the tailor collar, the back slit with lining and a few type of pocket. Now what they need is the front corner with lining, so here it is…Front lined jacket corner


I’m back

I have been absent to my blog for a long time, I almost forgot about it and I even lost my password, so I’m very sorry if I did not answer the message and comment. To get any pattern that I am using in my videos, just sent me an email at    I will send them to you, because I don’t know how to share them on this blog yet.

One of the reason is that I was so busy with all kind of project, like finishing my master in teaching  wile working as a fashion design teacher at Collège Lasalle, but also writing a book on garment details that will be publish shortly hopefully…

Beside that I create a tool that will be produce and commercialize shortly.

For now, I propose you my latest video on what I called the knotting.

Grading to your size


When you make patterns and garments, it’s quit possible that friend and family ask you to make one for them. Obviously they are not all the same size so you might have to do some grading.

I suggest you start grading an easy style like a t-shirt. It’s also easier to grade a block than a style. I create a tool to make my life easier and avoid redoing over and over the calculations. I’m sharing this with you in 2 videos and the documents are available on my site

Some more colours and design tips


Here’s the last part of my research…

ImageImagePINK, is associated with love and romance. Of course we all know pink as the true girly-girl’s favourite color, but it’s also associated with happiness. Pink is very calming, so don’t wear it if you need tons of energy. Because of its romance association, pink is a good choice for a date. Pink is a sign of hope. It is a positive color inspiring warm and comforting feelings, a sense that everything will be okay. The color pink represents the sweetness and innocence of the child in all of us. It is the color of uncomplicated emotions, inexperience and naiveté. Shades

MAGENTA, FUSHIA, HOT PINK is outrageous, imaginative and innovative, cheerfulness, happiness, contentment and appreciation Magenta is the color of the non-conformist, the free spirit.

ImageBROWN is a warm, natural, autumn color that evokes a sense of strength and reliability. Brown brings to mind feeling of warmth, comfort, and security. It is often described as down-to-earth, and conventional, but brown can also be sophisticated relaxing, confident, casual, reassuring, nature, earthy, solid, reliable, genuine and endurance. Shades 

ImageBEIGE is a chameleon, taking on some of the attributes of stronger warm or cool colors it accompanies. On its own, the color beige is a calm neutral and relaxing background. Sometimes seen as dull and boring unless coupled with other colors. It can be a relaxing color. Beige has traditionally been seen as conservative, dependable, and flexible. Beige garments might symbolize piety or simplicity.

ImageAQUA is motivated, active and dynamic, calming cool and refreshing color, Aqua blue is a universal symbol of youth, fidelity, hope and health.  Aqua blue is also associated with speech and communication, confidence, strength, and idealism. 

ImageTURQUOISE, TEAL is refreshing, cool, imaginative, innovative and youthful. Turquoise is refreshing and sophisticated.


Petite Fashion, by Paula Darnell

Basic neutral colors in fashion: black, gray, navy and brown, khaki, white.

Metallic neutral colors in fashion: gold, silver, copper and gunmetal, bronze, pewter.

Patterned neutral colors in fashion: glen (plaid), pin stripes, tweeds and tiny checks.


must have document gives you so much information’s about garments.

Shape and form amount to the silhouette of a garment.

Line refers to the edge or the outline of a garment

Style lines divide the space within a garment.

Seam lines refer to the assembling.

Texture is the element of design that describes surface appearance and feel. Fabric or other materials, such as trims and findings for clothing.

  • The weave and texture of a fabric have an impact on the way it drapes, which, in turn, affects the way a garment looks when it is worn.
  • The sensation from touching, holding, or squeezing fabrics is referred to as “hand.” Terms that describe texture overlap between the visual surface appearance and the hand include: clingy-rigid, cold- warm, crisp-limp, dry-moist, firm-flexible, heavy-light, opaque- transparent, pliable-stiff, rough smooth, shiny-dull, stretchy-sta- ble, and thick-thin.

The principles of design consist of: balance, proportion (also referred to as scale), emphasis, and rhythm. When a garment or ensemble uses the elements and principles of design to create a visual unity, harmony is achieved.

  1. Formal: It is also called symmetrical balance
  2. Informal: objects arranged on either side of a center are equal but not identical in all aspects
  3. Radial: the major parts of the design radiate from a central point.
  • PROPORTION: 3:5, 5:8, 8:13 horizontal sections.
  • RHYTHM: repetition, gradation, transition, opposition or radial arrangement
  • UNITY/ HARMONY: function, structure and decoration

More about the Impact of colour

There are just a few serious researches in color psychology but interior designer, artist, marketing people, fashion designer and other field should be working with those. Of course, the impact of the color is personal and comes from your experiences and your culture, but some have universal meaning. We all know that red palette is warm and blue palette is cool.

The 3 factors that influence the impact of the colors are…The hue (family name or quality of a colour), the value (adding white to color will make any hue lighter, there called tints, adding black to color gives shades) and the Intensity (brightness and dullness of a colour).

Here’s what I found from Color Psychology, How Colors Impact Moods, Feelings, and Behaviors, by Kendra Cherry. Colors and Mood: How the Colors You Wear Affect You by Zephyr – CF Editor, and What Colors Say, admin | August 4, 2012. Also, Empower yourself with color psychology, and of course Wikipedia. It’s not as simple as PINK is for girls and BLUE is for boys!

 ImageBLACK is an indicator of power. It is also associated with unhappiness, sexuality, formality, and sophistication. Black is often used in fashion because of its slimming quality. It signifies, seriousness, authority, and responsibility. Outside the office, black is also a color that will give you some rocker-chick edge. Black is associated with elegance, depth, death, evil, and mystery.

ImageWHITE represents purity or innocence. White is bright and can create a sense of space or add highlights. White is also described as cold, bland, and sterile. It reflects light. It’s also associated with peace, innocence, simplicity, and cleanliness. Wear white when you want to bring out any other colors you’re wearing – it enlivens anything you pair with it. White is the traditional color of bridal, It is considered to be the color of perfection. White means safety and purity, it’s the color of snow, it’s suggest simplicity in high-tech and care products.

ImageSILVER is prestige, cold and scientific. It’s symbolic of purity, strength, clarity and focus. It’s one of the noble metals. Silver is feminine like the moon. It gives an industrial look. It glitters, reflects and shines. Silver is glamorous, sophisticated, modern and hi-tech on one hand and alluring, sparkling and elegant on the other.

GRAY is the color of detachment, indecision and compromise. It’s conservative, traditional, boring and drab, dull and uninteresting but also class, efficiency and sophisticated, confidence, intelligence and serious. It’s a neutral color between black and white. It is the color of a cloud-covered sky, of ash and of lead.

Now the primary colors…

ImageRED is a bright, warm color is associated with love, warmth, and comfort. Red is also considered an intense, or even angry color that creates feelings of excitement or intensity. Want to get someone’s attention? Red is your color! Red empowers and draws attention toward the wearer. It’s also strongly associated with romance and passion, desire and love making it a perfect date-night color. Red is also the color of fire and blood, so it is associated with energy, war, danger, strength, power, determination.

Shades & tints of red: auburn, cardinal, carmine, cherry (cerise), chestnut, Indian red, mahogany, maroon, Persian, raspberry, ruby, scarlet, terracotta, Tuscan, Venetian, vermilion, wine.

ImageBLUE is the favourite color. Blue calls to mind feelings of calmness or serenity. It is often described as peaceful, tranquil, secure, and orderly. Blue is peaceful and calming as well as cold and standoffish.” Studies also show that blue can make you more creative, so if you want to channel some genius for your art project, wearing blue might be able to help. Blue to promote products and services related to cleanliness, air and sky

LIGHT BLUE — Peaceful, sincere, affectionate. NAVY, INDIGO represents knowledge, power, integrity, and seriousness. Navy is used for uniform and in sport garment.

Shades & tints of blue: Air Force, azure, baby blue, bleu celeste, bleu de France, blue-gray, cobalt , Columbia blue, cornflower blue, cyan, Egyptian blue, electric blue, iris, Maya blue, midnight blue, Persian blue, powder blue, Prussian blue, royal blue, sapphire, sky blue, steel blue, tiffany blue, ultramarine, Yale blue, zaffre.

ImageYELLOW is a bright color that is often described as cheery and warm. Yellow is also the most fatiguing to the eye due to the high amount of light that is reflected. Since yellow is the most visible color, it is also the most attention-getting color. Yellow can be used in small amount to draw notice. Yellow is also associated with intelligence and inspiration. Yellow is the symbol of summer. It’s a cowardice, childish’ color, so it is not recommended to use yellow when selling prestigious, expensive products to men.

Shades & tints of yellow: amber, apricot, chartreuse, citron, cream, and goldenrod, gold (or), harvest gold, flax, gamboge, jasmine, jonquil, lemon, lion, and maize, Mikado, mustard, peach, saffron, sage.

The secondary color

ImageGREEN is a cool color that symbolizes nature, durability, reliability, recycle, environmental, luxurious, optimism, well-being Green also represents tranquility, good luck, health, and jealousy, calm, safety, honesty, optimism, harmony, freshness, and fertility. Green is one of spring’s most popular shades. If you’re feeling really overwhelmed during finals week, add green to your outfit and you might feel more relaxed.

Shades of green: apple, aquamarine, chartreuse, emerald, forest, grass green, jade, Kelly green, lawn green, leaf green, lime, moss, olive, pea green, pine, sage, sea green, sea foam, spring green…

MINT is linked to peace.

ImagePURPLE is closer to red. It’s the symbol of royalty and wealth. Purple also represents wisdom and spirituality, regal and sophisticated. Purple is also associated with creativity and luxury. Like red, purple is a very stimulating color, which can boost your energy level when you see it. The Bisexual Community uses purple as a symbol because it is between pink, symbolic of homosexuality, and blue, for heterosexuality.

Shades of purple: amethyst, eggplant, mauve, orchid, plum…

VIOLET is closer to blue. It’s the color most commonly associated with the extravagant, the individualist, ambiguity, the unconventional, and the artificial.

ImageLAVENDER is romantic, imaginative, fantasy freshness, refinement along with grace, elegance, and something special.

ImageORANGE is considered an energetic color that draws attention. It’s represents autumn, creativity, the sun and Halloween. Orange is a very hot color, so it gives the sensation of heat. Orange is probably the most rejected and under-used color of our time. However, young people do respond well to it as it has a degree of youthful impulsiveness to it.

Shades of orange: apricot, tangerine, champagne, coral, salmon, carrot, papaya, peach, pumpkin, rust…

Look for my next post the last one on colour impact very soon.

The impact of a color!


Last semester, one of my student add use some beautiful fabric with so rich color for her final exam, that even if she wasn’t even half finish with her work, I told her she had good chances to pass because of the impact of the fabric. Her fabric was burgundy with some gold satin brocade and burgundy and emerald silk chiffon. Guest what, she pass…That made me think about this aspect of garment that influence the costumer and every body else without them knowing. I think the designer should know a lot more about it!



First lets look at the meaning of the colors she choose.

GOLD is illumination, wisdom, prestige and expensive but also power, strength, accomplishment and perfection and great value, riches, prosperity and extravagance. It is a warm colour which can be both bright and positive as well as sombre and traditional. Gold is masculine like the Sun.


BURGUNDY is elegance, richness, refinement, leadership, maturity and expensive. It is also associate with autumn, deep strength, strategy, wine and wealth, success, prosperity, elegance and unconscious beauty.



OLIVE is similar to khaki. Many armies around the world use it for uniforms, including camouflage. Olive is one of the colors used in fashion when a conservative, moderate color is desired. Olive green speaks space and wisdom, feminine leadership qualities, and peace through compassion for humanity. 



Looking at my researches, I understand a little more why every time I look at her fabrics, I said, they are so rich! And of course why she passes with a good grade. Beside her taste, I doubt she new the impact of the color palette she used, that’s why I will continue to analyse them and share with you my results.

Everything about pivoting

As promised, I worked on some documents and videos that could help understand the pivoting technics. This method could make you save so much time that even if you find it hard at the beginning, you should insist and PRACTICE my exercises. I’m sure you are going to love it. On top of being fast, it’s more accurate because there is less manipulation and it’s more clean because you don’t use glue or tape.

The pattern made easily gives you more time to express your creativity.

I’m flipping my class

This semester, I’m teaching composition of elaborated garments to third semester students and I’m hoping they already understand the basic techniques of the first and second semester. In case they need to go over some notions like circular and pivoting, I prepare videos to help them so we have more time in class to see new stuff. Here is the links for the 2 first ones.

Just click to watch it on Youtube Circular & Skirt pivoting

Remember you could get the related documents on my site sew pattern fashion,

Watch for more videos coming soon!